When I woke up finally at 5:13 AM, the birds were in full roving choruses of cries, shrieks, shrills and squawks. The room was already pretty light even at this early time. The electricity was on when I went to grab a shower. The shower is an interesting endeavor with warm or cold water and knobs with interesting settings. Last night Simone told us the last group had broken something in the wall connection of the knobs (so that the knobs don’t turn off smoothly). I then felt like the Wizard of Oz; manipulating the knobs in both directions to get the water to stop running (this is a game because the knob connections are funked and require a specific turning amount and a slow revolution speed around this point to turn off the water). Breakfast started shortly after this point, but I had to make it out of the shower after the lights went out (but it was rather easy as luckily the bathroom is open at the top to allow light from the room to enter). I ordered pancakes and only got two small 3” pancakes for 50 cordobas (or so I thought). Simone later told us that she gave Evan (who also ordered pancakes) and I only half of the pancakes we were supposed to have (and cut the price in half). The pancakes were quite good though with the syrup from the states too!
Shortly thereafter we commenced the journey up Concepción and I asked our guide Walter (5’8”, dark spikey hair) about the legends of the mountain. He spoke English, but we ended up talking to him in mainly Spanish. The first was a legend about the creation of the island, where a girl and a guy from warring tribes had fallen in love on the island. They then decided the only way to be together was to kill each other and die together in each other’s arms. When the woman ended up cutting her wrists, she fell back and her breasts became the two volcanos (Concepción and Maderas). The blood from the pair became Lake Nicaragua. The guy then became Zapoteras (a local island or land grouping). The warriors from the tribes became small isletas after the warriors had come to fine the pair in the forest. Another legend is the legend of Chocoverde. Chocoverde was an actual person who lived and died (?). Anyways, Chocoverde grew up in not a super great home life I don’t think, so eventually he ended up getting involved in black magic as a shaman (and started apprenticing under a shaman for a father). Eventually Chocoverde returned to his village or something. The legend tells that people could go to Chocoverde and ask for anything (health, wealth, power etc) and Chocoverde would grant this to that person in exchange for a sacrifice of a family member or relative (don’t like that annoying aunt or uncle? Just wish for ultimate wealth or infinite health and hand ‘em over to Chocoverde). Shortly after the person was denoted as a sacrifice, that person would disappear and a new animal would appear in the park where Chocoverde lived. Eventually after Chocoverde died, the legend continued and still continues to this day at one of the lakes (maybe the laguna) where people can still ask for promises. There is one catch, that if the person who asked for the favor decides to go back on their promise or doesn’t like their favor, then that person is turned into an animal and is sent to live in a town beneath (south I think, not actually below) the laguna O.o. Anyways, Concepción has several decent trails running up to the top of the mountain that are maintained by the hunters that hunt deer and white faced monkeys (cappuccinos like the drink due to their white face and brown/black bodies) in the mountain. The trails have also been there for 7 years. The white faced monkeys are sought after as pets (although judging by how Christa Flanagan on the MadTV eHarmony ad talks about her “pet,” I’m not sure I’d want one). The mountain was a vibrant home to numerous species of plants and the white faced and howler monkeys. The slopes were filled with luscious plant species and leafcutter ants to shiny beetles to sounds of howler monkeys and even nasty plants such as this BA poison ivy like plant:
We also saw this really cool fruit that acts as a natural glue (like Elmer’s Glue) for paper and is white just like Elmer’s too straight from the fruit (this grows at the base of Concepción). On the way down the guide showed us this cool spiky sour fruit resembling a mango (didn’t taste test it) that is supposed to help older people or something:
We started our hike around like 7:45 AM with a 30 minute to the base of Concepción from the bus stop. Not too bad right as this was all flat ground? The path then turned upwards and started with a graduated climb at 20 or 30 degrees. The trail was remarkably well maintained. Anyways, we were climbing the mountain at a pretty solid pace. The trail wasn’t bad at all (not treacherous (some vines, trees, rocks, roots, mud, narrow bits and low overhangs similar to the more rural parts of Swampy Lakes Trailhead in Oregon with greater difficulty and required guides and greater slopes. A woman from the US joined us for the hike back at the American. She was about 5’9” with blond frizzy hair and grey/green eyes in shorts and her name was Emily. She was a quite nice to talk to and was a good indicator of when we needed to wait and water break. She actually is from the mountains in the northern part of North Carolina and is down in Central America volunteering in Guatemala, but she was passing through from Costa Rica. She was so enthusiastic about what she was doing and so energetic that she was a great companion to our group up the mountain (she actually reminded me a bit of Mary Mecca (in a good friendly way)). We ended up soldiering up the mountain at lightning speed with our group of 6 (Ron, Evan, Mark, Emily, Walter and I). It seemed only a little while when we arrived at this tree for a break (located at 800 meters and it was about 9 AM). After relaxing and grabbing some water, with only another 40 minutes or so and 200 meters to go, we kept marching upward. The trail seemed to take on a more somber tone with the trailhead looming ahead of us up the slope of the mountain in switchbacks with rocks, mud, roots and vegetation of all types. The “mud” so to speak wasn’t all that bad as it only really rained about a minute or so on the forest canopy/cover, so very little rain actually filtered down to hit us. Eventually we crossed out of the cloudy forest cover to reach close to the lookout where we could look off the mountain and see the incredible slopes going down to meet the green flatlands and pastures down way yonder. At this point the sun even shone for a few seconds before more clouds from the volcano engulfed it. We were basically 1000 meters up at this point and the top of the mountain sat above like a gigantic grey cotton ball placed above the lookout.
The lookout was absolutely phenomenal. Absolutely stunning and awe-inspiring (when the view was clear). The mountain sloped downward like a lazy avalanche of green cascading down the steep slopes to meet the flat farm pastures dotted amongst the island. The actual lookout was a tree-less open area with grass clumps and lava rocks scattered around. At the lookout, we could see the clouds ringer around the peak of the mountain (think “The Gods Must Be Crazy” I or II where the main guy is at the “end” of the world to dispose of the coke bottle). We could see the avalanche of green on one side of the lookout and the other side sharply cut off and dropped to clouds and forest. Meanwhile the wind was whipping at 60 or 70 mph on the top of this area (and there were no trees, save for a small bush cropping to huddle behind for a respite from the intimidating winds (just look at the photos for proof)):
(Evan enduring the wind)
1000 meters and flying
Overall the wind was quite strong, but luckily the wind was blowing toward the avalanche of green side and away from the steep drop off. There was this group of about 15 or so Canadians (a student group from Quebec) that was packing up when we were arriving and one of the women had to go to the bathroom in the bushes. When she got back, the toilet paper she was holding escaped from her hand and all the TP she had (a sizeable amount) then promptly splayed out along the ground and just as quickly disappeared. She was fine for that except it appeared she had an allergic reaction to something in the bush as the rear of her knee was bandaged and there was this huge blister/puss filled raised section 0.5” x 3” x 0.5” (it looked painful and sketch). The Canadian group also had 4 guides (2 that carried machetes). While the Canadian group was taking their last few group photos, the two younger guides (teenagers) played Harlem Shake and started doing a bit of the dance behind them (probably not in the photo, but who knows). We stayed a bit longer than the Canadian, had the sandwiches we bought from Simone and then headed back down as it started to get windier and cloudy again. We chilled at the top for probably 15 or 20 minutes after our arrival at like 10:10 or 10:15 AM). The climb up only took about 2 hrs and 15 minutes or so, which was much faster than the guide book’s prediction. The guide also wanted us to head back down the mountain so we could make the 12 PM bus back to Moyogalpa (otherwise we would have to wait for the 2 PM bus). We took some photos on the top and then started the descent (luckily not nearly as bad as that awful movie “the Descent” about a group of women with severe tension heading into a cave/pit/mine/heckhole in the mountains and how they all die except the one whose husband died at the beginning of the movie and there are violent large Gollums running around and the women get freaked out and the one chick doesn’t even make it out of the cave thing but ends up dreaming she did, but wakes in the nest or something of the monsters. Whew. Thanks for bearing with me on that rant and intentionally long-winded speech. Anyways, the British couple that we had passed on the way up finally reached us at the lookout as we were leaving (the woman seemed clearly tired as she had complained on the flat part of the hike at the beginning).
On the way to the lookout
From the trail to the lookout
Trail to the lookout
The trail down the mountain
The cattle crossing with Emily
Back at the base of
Concepción on the road, we waited for the bus for maybe 20 minutes. In the
interim time we saw cowboys, motorcycles (no Che Guevara though) and even a
cattle herd shuffling along the road as the bus rolled up. The interesting thing
about cattle on Ometepe is that the farmers attached posts to the horns so the
cattle can just stand and have their heads propped up it seemed. As mentioned
in previous entries, buses in Nicaragua are “supped up” with cargo racks on the
tops, huge snorkel like exhaust pipes, multicolored sides, LED lights (on some)
and thumpin’ music (complete with a guy that collects fares, loads suitcases
and yells the destination of the bus). The bus back was no different, but it
had wooden seats with this plastic cord winding around everything inside the
bus even the steering wheel and gearshift. The bus even included the obligatory
stickers everywhere above the windshield (even two freedom eagles) and the
required religious writing that the bus goes with God’s benediction above the
windshield). The fare was only 10 cordobas and we arrived back in Moyogalpa
around 1 PM. After hopping off the bus, we headed back down the main street
toward the American, paid our guide and make plans to meet Emily after she
packed and showered (as she was heading off on the 2 PM ferry) and then
continued to the American down the oversized single lane road covered in small
pavers. Since it was still quite early, we contemplated renting bikes for the
afternoon, but we settled on lunch instead. After consultation with Simone and
Bob, we headed off to the Corner House (a newer restaurant, purported to have 5
star ratings by TripAdvisor). 
The Watermelon and water smoothie
The guy running the classy
establishment (I mean a fancy tangible relaxed and enjoyable environment with
wooden chairs and tables (and even some cushioned booths) clustered around the
central juice/drink bar)) was a Brit or an Aussie, but I couldn’t quite place
his accent. Evan and I ordered smoothies (his a passion fruit with milk and
mine a watermelon with water one). The awesome part of these smoothies was that
the smoothie was real fruit (like actual chunks of watermelon tossed in a
blender and slush-i-fied and served (sans whipped cream like Dutch Bros in Oregon,
but still quite tasty) for only 35 cordobas ($1.50)). We ordered lunch soon
after and Mark even had to order a smoothie after Evan and I began raving over
our smoothies. Anyways, I tried to order a steak and caramelized onions
sandwich, but ended up with that as a salad because I wasn’t clear in my
English (but it’s all good because I ask politely for two pieces of the
homemade wheat bread (thick stuff about an inch and a half thick and soft and
fresh)). I ended up shifting the salad leaves and the homefries into the
sandwich and having a fantastic sandwich as the homefries and nice balsamic
dressing on the salad greens made delectable contrast to the steak and onions.
Emily joined us shortly after we all got our food (Evan, Mark and I) and she
promptly ordered a passion fruit, banana and pineapple smoothie after hearing
about our good smoothies. Her mixed smoothie tasted delicious. It started with
a tangy burst of passion fruit chased by a light wave of banana and finished
with a faint residue of pineapple. After lunch, we said goodbye to Emily (not
to fret as we have her contact info). She then headed off to finish packing and
catch the ferry to start her journey to San Salvador (the capital of El
Salvador and a wicked sketch town according to Mark). Not too long after we
arrived back at the American, the sky opened up and dumped for about 15 to 20
minutes (it had rained a tick at the Corner House as well), which further
reinforced our decision to postpone biking). Karthik also ordered a piece of
Simone’s chocolate cake and shared a bite with everyone (this cake was delish,
just that dat’ fish (SB emails)). I then etched graphite onto a paper for a while
as I didn’t have my laptop in Ometepe. Later we all headed to the Italian pizza
joint next to the hotel as it was quite good last night. Mark, Evan and I ordered
a 16” “Familiar” pizza with mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, pepperoni and salami.
This pizza was good, but took over an hour to receive it as 1. The Canadian
group in full was eating at the restaurant and 2. The staff had to “change the
gas” on the oven (after it had been like 30 minutes into us waiting, and we
think they may have burned the pizza like last night, but who knows). Even
though the pizza was good, I ended up spending like almost $8 for the meal and
the drink. It was good, but I realized I spent quite a sum of money this
weekend. Anyways at the American Mark, Evan, Karthik and I ordered two pieces of
that really good chocolate cake (1 piece @ 40 cordobas) and it was quite tasty
with chocolate icing and milk and the breading (so good). By this point it was
pretty late (9:15 PM) and I wanted to go check out Johnny’s bar as the Canadian
group said they would be there and I wanted to see the party. I neglected to
mention thus far that our room had many quirks. I also neglected to mention
doorknobs. Some of the odd quirks included a backwards wired main fan, an antique
lamp with a finicky bulb holder, the busted shower knobs and the water heater
in addition to no doorknob on the bathroom door (so the door didn’t even
close). The bathroom in the lobby had a doorknob, but the doorknob would not
lock. The story behind this was that Simone and Bob bought knobs for the rooms,
but the cheap parts inside the lock corroded from the moisture so the external
handle appeared fine, but the door would close and not function or would lock
people in the bathroom, so they pulled out the door knobs out (some fine craftsmen
ship for those knobs).
Johnny's Bar
Johnny’s bar was not nearly as sketchy as we had thought. When Evan and I first walked in, this guy told us the American side was on the other half of the dance floor, so we hastily moved over there. The place was essentially just a roof over a concrete dance floor with some tables behind the dance floor (the place was pretty big too) and then chain link fence walls. Behind the wall behind the DJ station was the cockfighting ring for Sunday nights. We met 2 Canadian women there (Veronica and Claré) and talked to them awhile (they both had consumed a couple beers). We also danced with them a bit doing the typical stand in a circle thing and then they more or less sat down again. I chatted a bit about Quebec to Veronica. Meanwhile I didn’t really see any prostitutes there (I had expected to as Bob had mentioned that there may be some there), but the only person I thought was a prostitute was this “woman” in a yellow cocktail dress with “her” hair pulled back in a bun with a yellow flower. This “woman” was a former guy who had the operation to change genders. Now she didn’t even resemble a woman and looked more like Jaws from James Bond in a short dress with a flower in her hair (seriously that jawline and person was massive). Robertson, the tour guide coordinator for the American, was also there and we talked to him for a bit before he started dancing with Veronica. Veronica had to use the bathroom, so Robertson said to use the beach and we three walked outside (nothing sketchy happened). She went off into the trees away from the bar on the beach and pulled a Ke$ha while Robertson relieved himself near a bus. Classy people. I stayed where I was and watched my back and wondered why I was there (I also saw the cockfight arena (maybe 5 foot in diameter with chicken wire going from the arena fire pit thing to the ceiling) during this time). Evan and I left because we couldn’t really speak to any more of the Canadians because of the language barrier with French -.- . At one point I had also gotten tapped on the shoulder and no one was there, so I moved immediately (it was probably nothing, but I didn’t want to be in the same spot anymore). As we were walking back I had a flashlight and was shining it around the woods on the rural walk to the main street. About halfway back, we approached what seemed to be a couple standing around the back of a bicycle. They were turned away from us and we couldn’t really see anything except them standing there with their shoulders next to each other it seemed. I shone my light on them for a second to check they weren’t holding a weapon or anything then tried to not shine it on them for respect. As Evan and I approached, we witnessed no movement from that at all. Not even a flinch. Not a word either. It was eerie. We then were next to them and they still didn’t move or say anything. Even after we passed them we still heard no movement or any words as we walked away. It was quite creepy and we still have no idea what they were doing. Y’all can think on that for some time. Peace!
No comments:
Post a Comment